Climb 1 Our tour of Daone boulders starts with a warm up. This climb is easy to find as it is on the second large boulder you will see when following the path from the car park. Be aware that the boulder now looks rather different to the photo in the official guide book due to trees that are no longer there.
A good warm up for fingers. With a large ledge to stand on, the focus of this traverse is on finding the best crimps so you don't tip off backwards. There are a number of ways you can play around with this climb depending on how you wish to warm up, making it easier or harder. The huge foot ledge and lack of exposure make it ideal for those new to real rock climbing.
Climb 2 One of a few good climbs in this clearing. Strongly advise a spotter with reasonably sized arms for this climb. The start requires you to move in between two rocks, with the potential to fire into the wall behind should a hand slip. Make sure to move the mats when moving round the corner.
This V3 boulder is all about faith that the left hand will find a sweet spot on the arete and bumping up the right hand on positive crimps. The second half of the climb turns into a quite dropable slab. A big contrast to the powerful start, requiring you to recompose yourself to maintain your balance for the mantle. Once you know where all the holds are it becomes a simple climb, with potential for different heels and toes all the way up. A matter of personal preference.
Climb 3 Just a few metres to the left is our next climb, very easy to find as it really stands out. Recommend multiple mats and spotters here to stop the climber falling down the cave and keeping them off rocks should they drop.
The climb itself is not too tricky, it is the exposure that adds stress to the moves. The crux is a rockover right at the top of the boulder with foot placement being the key. This climb took me two attempts simply because I lost focus and approached the rockover half heartedly. The rockover can be done with a heel or a toe. The rock is incredibly grippy so you shouldn't be concerned with foot slips.
Climb 4 Face away from the side of the clearing with the previous two boulders, walk up the hill and you will come across a small stream. Next to this stream there is this simple slab. Be careful as it is easy to miss.
This climb is all about trusting your feet. Although it seems covered with moss, the rock is so textured that if you push down firmly your shoes will grip. The climb follows a crack to the top, layback to keep balance. One metre to the right there is also a similar climb but slightly easier. Beware of getting too close to nature as you top out with bushes about. This climb only needs one mat and spotter so is ideal if your group is splitting up.
Climb 5 Continue to walk up the hill the same way and you will come across another clearing. Here there are a number of climbs including this V6 going up the edge of the largest boulder.
A very crimpy and shoulder focused climb there are two potential sequences. One follows the left edge of the rock with the aim of taking a big reach to a good mono. The second possibility would be to go straight up the middle of the red line. This requires one or two cross over moves depending on how you do it.
Sadly it started to rain before we had time to work all the moves. I managed to get as far as the mono from the start. Very tricky climb!