This was the first boulder I did after some warm up. You can find it on the front of the long boulder just past the entrance. I didn't find it hard and very straight forward once I figured out the beta. In the end it took me two attempts. It all comes down to long reaches. The holds are positive and quite obvious.
You start by putting both feet on the big ledge and your hands on the flake right in front of you, your body slightly positioned to the left. With a long reach your left arm goes up to another flake and you step your feet a bit higher before you match with your right hand. The hold is very positive. Next you place your left foot almost hip height onto the flake that runs all the way to where your feet started.
That allows you to reach out with your right hand to another flake so that you can again bring your feet up. Press up and reach with your left hand to a hold just above you. Move your right foot out to a foothold, press and move your right hand to the next flake. Your left foot goes where your right hand just was and you match the top hold. Topping out is unfortunately not possible because of all the moss.
The first move is missing in the video.
This problem is on the same boulder as the previous; just around the corner. Turned out to be a really cool problem. That mostly came down to the beta I used. Two mantel moves in one boulder are a definite plus in my book.
It starts by placing your hands quite high. The right hand goes on the right side of the first horizontal crack, the left one slightly lower crimp further left. There aren't really any good footholds so it's all about smearing. Bring your left hand above to the same horizontal crack, a bit further left and bring your right hand over as well.
Smear up, and turn your left hand so that your balm is resting on the small ledge and your fingers are facing to the right. Mantle up and bring your right foot high to the start hold of the left hand. Your right hand goes higher into a gaston position which allows you to bring your foot even higher.
The next move is bumping your right hand up to the ledge above. Match with your left hand, use your feet again to smear and mantle again with your left hand. The last bit is a very straight forward top-out with good holds.
This boulder is located… It's a cool boulder because the start can be done in quite a few ways, it requires some good balance and body positioning and the finals moves are big jugs, followed by a sketchy top-out.
Start Variation 1: Place your left hand on the ledge on the left. It's got a nice part close to the left edge. Your right hand pulls on the edge of the crack of the slabby rock and your right heel is placed high on the slab to bring your body up and in.
Start Variation 2: Your right hand is still in the same position but your left hand is placed flat on the rock where the red line starts. Use your left foot to smear and mantle up. Now you can bring your right foot up and place it next to your left hand.
Start Variation 3: Your right hand also moves to where your left hand starts. Pull yourself up and place your right foot where the red line starts.
Once your are on top of the ledge, you have to make sure to position your body correctly so that you don't fall off. Keep your body close to the wall and aim for the flake above you. Match it and jump up to the next very positive holds (be careful not to get your fingers trapped, it's quite narrow).
The top-out is sketchy and I have not beta for it because I didn't make it.
For the last boulder we found this overhang one. It's quite a scary one because you're the landing zone isn't great and you definitely want some good spotters in case you do fall.
We modified it a bit to make it easier. Instead of starting all the way from the bottom, you start with your hands just below the roof bit, on a good jug. Your left foot can be positioned on the left boulder and your right leg is flagging to the right. Your left hand goes up to the crimp on the left so that you can move your right hand up as well, to a side-pull and then pumps up to a crimp slightly above.
Your can then move your left foot to the starting hold and throw your left hand over your head to a nice ledge. Match it, bring your right heel on top of the ledge as well and mantle onto the ledge. Make sure you are in a stable position and move your right hand up to a crimp just underneath the next roof. Match your left hand and switch your right hand into a side-pull position. That allows you to stand up. Move your left foot far out to the left where you can find a foothold in between the moss. The last part is a straightforward top-out.