La Curva sits on the steep roadside between two hairpin turns on the way up the valley. The setting has the perfect approach of 30 seconds flat walking from the car park to the first hand full of boulders. However, once the obvious blocks are accounted for some hacking your way through the forest may be necessary. Away from the road the approach is steep and overgrown, but the boulders make it worthwhile. Of all the locations in Val Daone, La Curva stood out to us as the most interesting with unusual climbs at a wide range of grades.
Climb 1 A fantastic easy traverse with a strong top out on an unusual overhang. This boulder sits on the inside of the lower of two bends in the road. Making it very easy to find. The climbs are easy to modify for difficult and the traverse can be campused on the overhang. Block 10 in the guide book.
Follow the shelf from a sit start on the left to the right with a big move to the upper ledge. After matching a high foot makes for a strong but simple mantle to finish in the trees.
Climb 2 On the same block climbing to the upper ledge from the opposite direction. The top out is the same as previous, but the climb starts on the slab before reaching the overhang.
Start far right on the slab and follow the split in the rock up and left to the overhang. From there traverse right on fantastic jugs until reaching the central top out.
Climb 3 This tall and imposing slab offers a few straightforward climbs to an easy top out with walk off. For the highballers the main bulk of the rock can be approached from the right hand side where an obvious line up the back arete will lead to the true top. This boulder sits across the road and very slightly uphill from the car park. Block 4 in the guide.
The flake on the left provides a welcome and comfortable start from which to reach up to the first shelf. Foot placements are plentiful but not always obvious. With jugs on the top out the end of this short boulder should not provide any issues.
Climb 4 Also on the front of the same boulder, this time a vertical climb starting at the right.
Use the line from the crack in the rock starting low on the right. Follow the line up to the shelf where ridiculously good hands make choice of feet immaterial to the top out.
Climb 5 A short and concave rock with distinctive black stripes down its face. The routes here are not particularly special, however a hidden hollow below the overhang makes the top out seem quite high. This boulder sits a few metres further uphill along the road from the last block. Block 9 in the guide book.
Start slightly left of the black stripes and move up first on crimps provided by the flakes and then jugs. Feet can easily follow hands to ake this feel like a gym style problem.
Climb 6 This wedge shaped boulder has a hew routes up its front face, including a difficult traverse from bottom left to top right. Here we follow the line up the front right corner. Again this block is very close to the car park just a few metres uphill along the road. Block 5 in the guide book.
Start low on the right hugging the protrusion after securing a heel on the lower right. Match hands at head hight and smear up to dead-point with the right hand to the first ledge. From there follow the ledges to the top for the top out.
Climb 7 This zebra striped boulder presents its vertical face to the road. There are several possible routes up the face on the right with differing degrees of difficulty. Another option for a slightly harder climb is to climb the arete on the left to the pinnacle. This is the nearest block to the car park and would require a lot of effort to miss. Block 3 in the guide book.
Start on the right at the edge of the large white stripe using two crimpy pulls. From there approach the ledge and reach high for a positive pull on the right. From there traverse. left along the ledge to the high point and mantle to top out.
Climb 9 A square, slightly overhung boulder hidden away in the forest. Due to tree growth the top out is not possible. A very obvious dynamic move follows the crack up the centre of the rock, it makes for a two move climb but requires catching the dyno on a single hand crimp. After multiple attempts this approach was abandoned.This block is hidden away in the forest, it can be approached by hacking through from the higher curb on the upper bend in the road. It's fairly close to the road but the approach is quite steep and awkward when carrying mats. Block 22 in the guide.
Start on the left and follow the arete up to the ledges before traversing right to the centre of the block.
Climb 10 An alternative climb on the same rock. Again with no top out.
Start on the left as before but this time follow the diagonal line right to the top before a shorter traverse right to the centre of the block.